5 Days Walking the Camino de Santiago (Sarria to Santiago Guide)
Thinking about walking the Camino de Santiago? Here’s my 5-day Camino Frances itinerary from Sarria to Santiago, plus honest tips + what to expect.
Walking the Camino de Santiago had been on my bucket list for years—and finally, I made it happen. In this post, I’m sharing my 5-day experience walking the Camino Frances from Sarria to Santiago, including what it’s really like, what surprised me, and tips to help you plan your own Camino adventure.
If you’re wondering whether you can walk the Camino in just a few days, what to expect on the trail, or if it’s truly worth it… this guide is for you.
What is the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago is a network of pilgrimage routes across Spain that lead to Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of Saint James are believed to be buried.
What It’s Really Like Walking the Camino de Santiago
- Expect to walk an average of 15 miles per day.
- Weather can change quickly (hello rain!)
- You’ll meet people from all over the world.
- It’s as mental as it is physical. And, life-changing!
Walking the Camino de Santiago (Sarria to Santiago)
Pre-Camino de Santiago (Madrid and Sarria)
Jet-lagged, and bleary eyed, my friends and I set out to explore a glimpse of Madrid. Pictured above is the beautiful Catedral de la Almudena just before sunset.
After more aimless rambling through the streets of Madrid, we stumbled upon a tapas bar, enjoyed a quick dinner of ??? and wine, then, fading fast, walked back to our hotel for a long night of beauty sleep.
Top row-1. My FABULOUS friends and walking companions 2. A glimpse into the glorious Plaza Mayor. Middle row-1. Street performer at the Plaza Mayor. 2. Happy people sitting on a bench. Bottom row-1. Me in front of some fancy building. 2. More people walking and enjoying the beautiful Madrid evening.
And, the next morning, we headed to Sarria via train…
Our unofficial journey began the next morning after a quick “farewell to Madrid breakfast,” and we boarded the train for a 6+ hour ride to our official starting point in Sarria, Spain.
Top row-1. Our “last breakfast in Madrid.” 2. The scenery on our walk from the train station to our digs for the night. Middle row-1. Planning our route on a cocktail napkin at dinner that night 2. A typical Galician dish of Pulpo a la Gallega. If you think you don’t like octopus, this dish will absolutely change your mind. Delicious!! Bottom row-1. Pretty wall mural in the town of Sarria, Spain 2. Me. At the Sarria train station. Wearing my last clean clothes for the next several days.
Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin (22 km, 13.5 mi)
Our official Camino de Santiago pilgrimage begins on the Camino Frances route before the sun is up! But, oh, once the sun comes up, it is a beautiful day (sadly, our last full day without rain), and the scenery is stunning!
Top row-1. Hiking up the hill out of Sarria in the dark. My friend Monica looks so happy! 2. Starting to get lighter as I reach the top of the hill and look down into the town of Sarria. 3. The start of some gorgeous, wooded scenery in Galicia, Spain. Middle row-1. Happy horse. 2. Pretty countryside church. 3. Happy cows. Bottom row-1. Dinner with a view of our stopping point for the first day, Portomarin. 2. Statue in the pretty town of Portomarin.
Food, food, glorious food, along the Camino Frances in Galicia, Spain! In addition to the Chestnut trees that were growing EVERYWHERE, here’s a glimpse at some of the food we saw on the first day of our walk…
Top row-1. Beans growing in someone’s garden. 2. My friend Vinita is picking an apple from one of the many trees growing along the road. Middle row-1. A pumpkin growing in someone’s garden. 2. Wild blackberries growing along the road. Yes, I stuffed myself full of them! Bottom row-1. I had to research these greens, after we saw them growing in everyone’s yard. Turns out, they’re called Grelos {aka turnip greens or rapini/broccoli raab} and they are used extensively in Galician dishes, including the most delicious soup, Caldo de Gallego 2. Corn?? There sure was a lot of it!
Day 2: Portomarin to Palais de Rei (24 km, 15 mi)
Day 2 of our journey from Portomarin to Palas de Rei began in the dark again. I’d say it was well worth it, just to see this gorgeous sunrise in the Galacian countryside, don’t you think?!
After that spectacular sunrise, we wandered through the countryside, stopped for coffee, and stopped again for lunch. Then, after lunch, the rain began!!!
Top row-1. My friend Elizabeth is in the middle of a labyrinth. 2. A gorgeous flower in bloom. 3. The long road ahead. Middle row-1. And the road continues… 2. And then the rain begins…Me in my yellow poncho and backpack “hump”. Sexy look, huh? 3. More walking, and a muddy road. Bottom row-1. We finally made it to Palas de Rei and enjoyed a much deserved bottle of wine. 2. Pretty little chapel in Palas de Rei. 3. Our hostel for the night.
Day 3: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso (~29 km, ~18 mi)
Ahh…this day. Our longest day. Mostly in heavy rain. My most “trying” day. The one where I picked up my pace, sped ahead of everyone after lunch, and counted 17,000 steps in my head (my Fitbit had died)-just to keep me going the next 8 1/2 miles to the tiny town of Ribadiso. Where we found the last room to sleep in. The one we shared with 20 other people, including a very amorous couple. And a very wobbly bunkbed.
Pictured from left to right above: Top row-1. The day started out dry, and was quite lovely as we walked through the misty forest. 2. Chestnuts!!! 3. My friend, Kavita, stopping for a break in the forest. Second row-1. Yes, it’s me wearing the same sexy yellow poncho in front of a pretty chapel. 2. A bridge entering the pretty town of Melide. Third row-1. Elizabeth, Vinita, and Kavita in front of the restaurant we ate at that evening in Ribadiso. As I recall, the wine flowed freely. 2. Best lunch ever at Pulperia A Garnacha~The Caldos de Gallego was SO good after walking almost 9 miles in the rain! As I recall, the wine flowed freely. Bottom row-Maybe, just maybe, all that rain was worth it, for green pastures, and views like this.
And pretty wildflowers like this…
Day 4: Ribadiso to O’Pedrouzo (22 km, ~14 mi)
We headed off in the dark again to make our way to Aruza for a little breakfast, before heading to our last night on the Camino Frances in O’Pedrouzo…
Top row-1. Breakfast for my friends. Not gluten-free. 2. Breakfast for me. Gluten-free Tarta de Santiago (Almond Cake), café con leche, and fresh-squeezed OJ. Middle row-50+ Shades of Green! Bottom row-1. The long muddy road ahead. 2. Blue and red ponchos are pretty sexy too, don’t you think?!
Day 5: O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela (20 km, ~12 mi)
On day 5, the last day of our trek, we couldn’t have asked for a more picture perfect morning. As we were walking West, it was hard to not keeping looking back on this gorgeous sunrise emerging behind us. Thank goodness we had this image to keep on our minds, because another hour later, the rain set in again, and remained our constant companion until almost the end.
Although this was our shortest walking day, it felt like the longest, as the mileage signs (“x” miles to Santiago) along the road kept increasing the farther we walked. Not to mention, with my water trodden boots, my blisters, and the now constant pain in my right knee, I was hobbling along at a snails pace. But, in the end, we arrived at the magical town of Santiago de Compostela…
Top row-1. Wooden crosses on the road to Santiago de Compostela 2. Taking a break before the rain sets in. The scallop shell is seen all along the Camino de Santiago as a guide, and is said to represent the different pilgrimage routes, all leading to one point-the tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela. Middle row-1. Monte do Gozo (Hill of Joy), where we got our first view down into Santiago de Compostela. 2. The long walk down, and still 3 km/2mi to go. Not fun with knee pain. Bottom row-1. We’ve {almost} made it. But there’s still a lot of walking in the old part of town. 2. Pretty much the best bed ever. And the best shower ever at Pension San Roque.
More photos from the magical town of Santiago de Compostela, where we stayed for two nights.
We were fortunate to attend services and see the Botafumeiro at the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela on our second day there. What a beautiful experience!
As I touched upon at the beginning of my post, walking the Camino de Santiago truly was a journey of a lifetime for me.
When I first reached Santiago de Compostela, my initial thoughts, after having perhaps the best shower of my life, were that it felt really good to switch things up a bit and get out of my comfort zone. Although we stayed in hostels/pensions, and weren’t “roughing it in the wild”, it had been a LONG time since I had last stayed in a hostel, let alone walk 14 miles a day for 5 days in a row. It definitely made me more appreciative of how fortunate and blessed I have been in life.
My second thoughts were a bit more reflective, after I got the phone call from my husband the afternoon we arrived in Santiago, letting me know that my father was in the hospital recovering from a broken hip after a traumatic fall where he had tumbled down the canyon in my parents’ backyard. This had happened 5 days prior, and he had made my husband promise not to tell me until I had arrived in Santiago. This was on top of my mother already having been quite sick for some time, and the doctors having no idea how to help her.
Do you feel that things happen for a reason? I do. Although I hadn’t set out to walk the Camino de Santiago as a pilgrimage, as so many do, I felt like I arrived in Santiago for a reason, and that evening after sunset, there seemed no more perfect place to be than in the Catedral de Santiago, lighting prayer candles for my parents. I am thrilled to report that one year later, they are both doing well!
I don’t know if my prayers had anything to do with their recoveries, but I like to think they at least played a small part in something much larger than me!
Camino de Santiago Resources & Links
- A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago ~ John Brierley. This was our “go-to guide” that we had photocopied and used to help us pick places to stay along the route. Highly recommend!
- Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago film. This movie, which covers walking the entire Camino Frances (500 miles), had just come out before we did our walk, and we were able to go to a special screening and Q&A with the directors.
- A Million Steps by Kurt Koontz ~ I didn’t actually read the book, but the author visited our local library and spoke about his Camino adventure.
- My Camino Packing List and Gear Review on YouTube ~ I used this guide to help me decide what to pack. See my suggestions in the tips section below for other tips!
Places to Stay & Eat along the Camino Frances route: Sarria to Santiago
- Sarria ~ Stay: Pension Blasones
- Morgade (en route to Portomarin) ~ Eat: Casa Morgade
- Portomarin ~ Stay: Pension El Caminante || Eat: O’Mirador-Fabulous views of the Rio Mino!!
- Palais de Rei ~ Stay: Albergue San Marcos
- Melide {en route to Ribadiso} ~ Eat: La PulperÍa A Garnacha
- Ribadiso ~ Stay: Albergue Los Caminantes || Eat: Mesón Ribadiso
- O’Pedrouzo ~ Stay: Pension Pedrouzo || Eat: Panaderia Vazquez (breakfast)
- Santiago ~ Stay: Pension San Roque (lovely place!) + Hotel Universal
Tips for Walking the Camino de Santiago
- Start in Sarria if you have less than 1 week and want to get your Pilgrim’s card.
- Be prepared for rain!!!
- Pack light (trust me on this).
- Book ahead in busy seasons.
- Bring blister care essentials.
- Don’t underestimate the emotional side of the journey
P.S. Eating Gluten Free on The Camino de Santiago
I’m not normally a travel blogger. I’m a dietitian and gluten-free recipe developer. That being said, it was pretty easy for me to find gluten-free meals for lunch and dinner.
Breakfast was not as easy as a typical pension breakfast, which was a croissant, but I had a big supply of Zing Bars, which I supplemented with Café con Leche and fresh-squeezed orange juice that was included in the pension breakfast.
Lunch and dinner were very similar across all the towns and restaurants, and a typical Pilgrim meal included soup or salad, meat/vegetable/potatoes, wine/water, and dessert.
Other popular gluten-free options included jamon y queso (ham and cheese), Spanish tortilla, Caldo de Gallegos, and that yummy Torta de Santiago I mentioned earlier. In addition, you can buy almost anything you want to eat in many of the larger towns. I promise you will not go hungry!
To Close…
Walking the Camino de Santiago was one of the most challenging—and rewarding—experiences I’ve ever had. It pushed me physically, gave me space to reflect, and left me with memories I’ll never forget.
If it’s on your bucket list, consider this your sign to go.
Let’s Chat! Have you walked the Camino de Santiago trail? If so, did you do the full route or a shorter version? Or, did you do an alternate route?
